Appalachian Mountain Club - Delaware Valley Chapter

Intro to Winter Backpacking
Notes from the Winter Backpacking Workshop
presented by Luke Smithson, Nov 2007

Physical Preparation: Winter conditions are physically demanding. Don’t neglect conditioning and fitness while focusing on equipment!

• Heavier packs

• Heavier clothing/footgear

• Harsher conditions

• Less room for error

Mental Conditioning: Winter conditions are mentally challenging

• You must become comfortable with a little discomfort

• You will always be a little chilly...when you become warm, you will start to sweat

• You will have less daylight...you will be working in the dark

• Working in bulky clothing and gloves can be tiring

• More commitment: bigger rewards!

Equipment Basics: Winter conditions demand more reliance on equipment.

• Clothing: Layers and layers for lots of options. Much of your time will be spent adding and shedding layers to manage your body heat. Don’t let yourself overheat! Sweating is not desirable in cold conditions!

• A good rule of thumb is to go light while you are moving...let yourself be a little chilly (not cold), then layer up as soon as you stop moving (breaks, lunch, camp).

• It is easier to stay warm than to warm up!

• Types of clothing: Never Cotton! Synthetics tend to be best options, although wool can have its place

• Clothing Systems for performance

• Base Layer: moisture wicking fibers

• Insulating Layer(s): layers of insulating materials, such as fleece and down. Should be loose to create air pockets of insulation

• Outer Layer: wind/waterproof shell jacket with hood and wind/waterproof shell pants with full side zips. A heavier rain jacket is a good shell for PA, as we often get icy drizzle in the winter.

• Heavy parka/down jacket may be desirable for camp and extended breaks. If you are expecting really cold temps (below 30) or high winds, it may be good idea just to have one with you

• Versatility is the key to winter clothing...multiple light layers work better than one or two heavy duty layers as you will shed and don layers to regulate your body temp. Clothing with vents are convenient, especially zippered arm pit vents on jackets and full length zippers in the sides of pants.

• When shopping, explain to the salesperson what you are using the clothing for. Read tags and information sheets. Consider items beyond the cost, such as reliability, versatility, and durability.

• Footwear: Insulated boots with heavy socks/liners are usually sufficient for PA winters

• Footwear options include

• Insulated Hiking Boots: Limited uses

• Leather Mountaineering Boots: Good Versatility

• Plastic Boots: Overkill for this area, but good to know about

• Keep shoes roomy: tight shoes are a guarantee for cold feet. A little airspace creates lots of insulation.

• Socks: Heavy wool, synthetic, or combinations of both work well

• Extra dry pairs to change into as your feet sweat

• Synthetic, moisture wicking liners will help maintain warm, dry feet.

• Traction Devices:

• StableIcers: Can provide some traction in questionable areas, such as thin layers of ice on trail or light snow. Can be used with most types of boots.

• Crampons: Provide heavier traction for thicker layers of ice and steeper terrain. Can be dangerous to yourself (i.e. holes in your pants, legs, boots, feet), other people (i.e. the person behind/downhill from you) and you equipment (i.e. your tent floor when your forget to take them off). Instruction in their use is recommended.

• Snow Shoes: Lots of options with snow shoes, from small running shoes to huge shoes for deep back country travel. Usually fits most boots (but check before buying). Hiking poles help with snow shoes.

• Gloves/Mittens: Need to be heavily insulated (fingers and toes are usually the first body parts to get cold

• Mittens tend to be warmer, but give you less control of your fingers when trying to manipulate equipment. Gloves let you have control of your fingers.

• Lined gloves/mittens are a good option: thinner base layer and a heavier shell

• A good option here is to wear a glove base layer and a mitten shell. The shell can be removed while the glove base is retained when finer finger detail work is needed (i.e. priming a stove)

• Always carry a backup pair of gloves, as warm as you main pair. Wet gloves are a recipe for disaster.

• Tying your gloves to an “idiot cord” is not a bad idea. Lost gloves are no good (not to mention expensive).

• Other specialized winter clothing include:

• Hats/headbands: keep that head warm!

• Baclavas/Face Masks/Neck Gaiters/Scarves: Always nice, depending on conditions...Baclavas are great for bedtime

• Gaiters: Waterproof barriers that wrap around your ankles and shins...keeps the snow out of your boots...a necessary piece of equipment in the snow. Available with or without insulation

• Overboots: Supercharged gaitors! Waterproof and insulated covers that go over your entire foot and shin. Overkill for our area, but good to know about, particularly if you are prone to cold feet.

• Booties: down “pajama” booties for you feet

• Sunglasses: snow glare is painful!

• Sleeping Arrangements

• Shelter: Freestanding tents are essential, as the frozen ground will not accept tent stakes. Winter time is a great time to make use of the shelters on the A.T. and other areas. The elevated platforms keep you off of the ground and are usually dry and free of snow. There are also rarely ever crowds in these areas during the winter. A tarp can close off the open side of the shelter.

• A lightweight snow shovel may be needed to clear a tent platform. Make the platform as flat as possible.

• Sleeping Bags/Pads: Winter sleeping bags are needed. 0 to 20 degree bags are usually sufficient for this area. Bag liners can improve comfort and versatility of the bag. Pads are absolutely essential. The frozen ground is a huge heat sink! Doubling up on pads is usually recommended (i.e. a foam pad with an inflatable pad on top.

• Keep sleeping bag and extra clothes in a dry sack or a sealed garbage bag...if the rest of your equipment becomes wet, you will still have a dry set of clothes and a dry bag to crawl into.

• Clothing: Wear your dry clothes and a hat to bed

• Other sleeping considerations

• Boil water right before going to bed. Fill your water bottles with the hot water, stuff them into a sock and bring them into your bag for a heat source. Not having to melt ice for breakfast is also a nice bonus!

• Put you boots into a waterproof bag (i.e. a garbage bag) and put them into the bottom of you sleeping bag for the night. Your feet will be grateful for not having to go into 30 degree boots in the morning.

• Bring snacks to bed with you. If you wake up cold, have a little nibble to get the furnace firing again

• Bring a “bedpan” to bed with you (an easily distinguishable Nalgene bottle) so that you don’t have to get up in the middle of the night.

Food and Water

• Your calorie needs are greater in the winter as your body will be burning more calories to keep you warm. Calories=Energy=Warmth... Eat!

• Continue eating throughout the day to stay warm...this means constant snacking!

• You’re hiking in a refrigerator, so bring whatever you want!
  

• Keep high calorie snacks handy so that you can grab a bite while moving.

• Soft Granola Bars (lots of fat to keep them soft)

• Chocolate bars (Snickers, Goodbars, Peanut or Almond M&M’s)

• Gorp w/ Chocolate

• Peanut butter balls whipped w/ butter, then rolled in cocoa powde, coconut, or confectioner sugar (add sugar and salt to peanut butter if desired)...freeze at home, then package in baggies and keep frozen

• Dried Fruits

• Soft Cookies

• Dry Cereal (I like Fruit Loops)

• It is not a bad idea to carry a little extra food with you in case you are held up by weather or misfortune. A days worth is generally considered appropriate.

• Your water needs are just as great in the winter as in the summer...you must make yourself drink regularly

• Your bodies thermoregulation system is one of the first systems affected by dehydration...in other words, your body needs water in order to regulate it’s body temperature.

• During the winter months, you may need to melt ice and/or snow in order to have water

• Ice yields more water than snow

• When you melt the ice, you are also boiling your water...you will not need a filter (which will freeze up anyway) or chemicals to sanitize your water.

• You will need extra fuel for melting water

• You will need a stove that functions in cold weather

• Liquid white gas stoves work well, although you need to test yours before taking it out on the trail

• To test at home, place your stove in the freezer overnight. Remove and attempt to light while the stove is frozen.

• Some stoves will need a priming gel and/or a wind screen to operate well.

• You will need water bottles, as bladder packs will freeze up in cold weather.

• You will need an insulated cover for your water bottle to prevent freezing. Carry you water bottle upside down to prevent ice from forming at the top of the bottle.

• Carrying extra water close to the body will help prevent freezing

• Inside jackets

• Against back in your backpack

• In sleeping bag at night

• NOLS Cookery by Claudia Pearson is a good outdoor cookbook that can help with winter food suggestions; contains good caloric and fuel consumption guidelines for winter

Other Winter Considerations

• Batteries do not last as long in the cold weather. Alkaline batteries are the best all purpose battery for cold weather. Nickel-Cadmium batteries (rechargeable) work better in the cold, but don’t hold as much energy as Alkaline. Carry extra.

• You will be carrying everything out, including human waste. Pack waste containers (i.e. heavy zip locks) accordingly.

• Get a weather forecast! Think about what kind of weather and conditions you will be encountering before planning and packing. Remember, you may be at higher elevations than what the forecast is predicting.

• Share the load: Winter packs are heavier, so distribute the extra weight (extra fuel, extra food, snow shovel, etc.) appropriately.

• Have fun!!!!